Apologies for the lengthy silence. Ninian has had an extremely busy summer with back-to-back safaris and with Jamey on holiday we have joined a few of them.

Where to start? So many highlights.

The Mara was truly spectacular…wall-to-wall wildlife. At night our camp was rocked by the greatest of all African symphonies— lions roaring, hyenas laughing maniacally, wildebeest grunting, zebras yipping and the sound of thundering hoofs as the herds galloped past camp.

Thousands of people a year visit Kenya to experience the great migration. On our last safari we felt like the luckiest people alive. One morning after a gentle drive we arrived at our chosen spot for breakfast by the Mara River. As we unpacked our picnic we noticed a massive build-up of wildebeest and zebra a few hundred yards upstream. Ninian, certain that they were about to cross, bundled everyone into the cars and we got there just in time to watch them take the plunge. We sat and watched (alone, without another vehicle in sight) in awe for almost an hour as they struggled through the strong current. This time they had chosen their crossing point wisely and there were no crocodiles to be seen. It was amazing to watch even the smallest babies throw themselves in and equally amazing to see that almost all of them made it across. Later when we saw another crossing further upstream the crocs were so full that they barely acknowledged the migrating herds in the water not yards away. All in all we saw three different crossings that day. A record. I was thrilled because, despite having been brought up here, and having spent much of my life on safari, this was only the second time I had seen a river crossing.

One lucky safari saw an amazing 17 cheetah over a 24-hour period while in the Mara. I put this astounding wildlife tally down to the guides and spotters who not only found wonderful things to see but also managed to keep well away from the crowds.

I love being in camp and have waxed lyrical in the past about sleeping under canvas—here I go again— sorry! The pace of life in camp is always perfect…it reduces all the worries of our everyday lives to nothing. To sink into bed after a day of fresh air, walks and game drives, as well as big meals and a long drink round the campfire, is truly unbeatable. Maybe somewhere deep in our psyche there are vague memories imprinted from thousands of years ago that kick in when you get out into the bush - whatever the reason, it is truly satisfying.

On the last safari that I joined we were incredibly honoured when one of our guests offered to cook dinner. Now this is not as simple as it may sound. Our camp kitchen is no ordinary kitchen. Housed in a tent, the store cupboards are tin trunks, the stove is actually a bed of coals and the oven a tin box regulated by adding or removing coals from above and underneath. Dr. Desai rose to the challenge and produced the most delicious fish curry I have ever eaten. Our cooks were delighted, as were all of the rest of us. A meal to be remembered!

Ninian and his guests have also had some rather unusual experiences. While in Buffalo Springs they found a leopard that had just killed an almost full-grown cheetah cub. They watched the leopard carry the cub up into a tree where it ate it over the next few days. On the final morning they could see the leopard and the dead cheetah, together with another cheetah and a male lion. Later, after sunset, they watched the lion follow the scent of the three-day-old kill and chase off the leopard. On the same safari they set a new record and saw 68 species of mammal in three weeks in Kenya. Its unlikely one could match it anywhere else in Africa.

Ninian’s spotter Kuria, whom many of you know, strongly believes that Ninian has a weird connection with cheetah. He certainly seems to have some pretty incredible interactions with them. A few safaris ago, a mama with cubs brought down a gazelle very close to the car. She didn’t kill it immediately but allowed the cubs some hunting practice before doing so. With no shelter in sight, she dragged it under Ninian’s car, where she and her cubs could enjoy their meal in shade without the bother of hyena or vultures. One can only imagine the sound effects inside the vehicle!

We have a couple more safaris left as the season winds to a close. We are planning some exciting exploratory trips in the next few months, including one to Gabon to experience their beaches, from which one can apparently watch elephants and whales while fishing for enormous Tarpon. We’re also planning another trip to South Africa to do some whale watching with Jamey. We’ll let you know all about it on our return.

Kwaheri for now.

Lara, Ninian and Jamey Lowis
Nairobi, January 2004

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